Kitchen Design Tidbits to Increase Your Storage Space and Efficiency, But Lessen your Kitchen Size
As an Architect, I try to work with the most effective way of design to generate a house more effective and well used for the square footage. On this page, I’m coping with kitchen design, and how to make it better used and storage, allow it to be feel more open than a standard kitchen, but take action within a smaller size (size costs money).
I’m a big believer in the “Open Floor Plan” which has fewer walls and doors, with rooms tied together as open visual space. Keeping the Great Room, Dining area and Kitchen “open” (meaning no walls with shod and non-shod) help make all the rooms “feel bigger”. The wall removal helps facilitate the communications involving the rooms. You do not feel isolated with the food prep when ghost kitchens are removed, and so folks don’t ought to get yourself into your home to talk to you. They can do it externally living rooms zone.
Maintain ceilings tall by putting in scissors trusses. You can make your walls 8 foot tall, but by having the scissors truss (peak at 13 to 14 feet) will give you a lot of visual space plus a less confined feeling. And get a skylight in the kitchen area. The opening to get a skylight can be much bigger than the skylight itself. Obtain the opening in the peak from the ceiling for the side of the wall, and look for the skylight near a perpendicular wall so it will disperse the lighting during the entire kitchen. Put some “niches” inside your tall walls above the 8′ line for greenery, or statues. Put “puck” lights in these niches for accent lighting.
Use tall, 2′ deep cabinets as opposed to overhead cabinets. 2 foot deep, 7 foot tall cabinets (or 8 foot tall) are also known as pantry or utility cabinets. With fixed shelves, they hold over 4x the maximum amount of stuff as a possible overhead cabinet. Put a distinctive line of tall cabinets along a back wall, and near the opening to the kitchen zone. By having a 2′ wide, 2′ deep, 7′ tall cabinet close to the Kitchen opening (usually near the Kitchen) it could store every one of the glasses, dishes, platters, and bowls the application of every day. People do not have to go into the kitchen to obtain the dinnerware setting the table while you would with overhead cabinets.
By utilizing just 3 tall cabinets (2′ deep 7′ tall) driving your home, as well as the open floor plan, this gives the rest from the kitchen to get 36″ tall base cabinets and countertops, without overhead cabinets. Eliminating overhead cabinets (along with the associated wall) just gives you a terrific open feeling. Your kitchen isn’t as as cramped. The windows and day light come from the windows with the other rooms and skylights, meaning you don’t have to waste valuable kitchen wall space for windows. Place your sink and cooktop to face outside rooms.
From the corners in the kitchen, install cabinets at 45 degrees towards the adjoining cabinets as opposed to a “blind” cabinet or “lazy susan”. While a 45 degree cabinet has some dead space, it utilizes more space compared to a “lazy susan”, due to the fact the cupboard shelves and drawers are square, plus a “lazy susan” is round.
Put a pantry from the corner relating to the tall cabinets. This doesn’t happen should be big (4′ x 4′) and being in the corner will utilise all the corner “dead” space. The pantry could have a 2′ opening at 45 degrees for the adjoining cabinets. The pantry walls could possibly be 2×4 framed with drywall or 3/4″ MDF, though the wall must not be taller as opposed to height from the tall cabinets. This permits for crown molding (if you utilize it) to also supply for the pantry. Possess the pantry open at the very top, in particular when there’s a skylight above, to allow daylight in the pantry. Have shelves from your floor to top of wall. Place a “cabinet door” (same as all of your tall cabinets) around the pantry entrance, not really a frame door like you’d used in bed. Having a cabinet door the pantry, and also the pantry walls with the same height since the cabinets, the pantry seems like a cabinet instead of a drywall opening.
Within the pantry, put in a counter with 4 electric outlets. This is when the coffee brewer, toaster, electric can openers, etc are to be permanently located. It keeps them off your kitchen countertops, but you are always accessible to use. You don’t need to store them within your cabinets no dependence on appliance garage cabinets. This leaves your main kitchen countertops “clean” (nothing to them) plus much more open for that food prep you have to do.
Put an upper counter 8″ above your countertops (i.e. 6″ wall, 2″ thick upper counter). In the “open floor plan” concept, this 8″ of height hides a “messy” kitchen counter from view to another rooms. In addition, it provides you with lots of space for multiple electric outlets within the in the 6″ wall areas. The 6″ tall wall could be the right height for 6″ ceramic wall tile. The upper counter is 44″ (elbow height) an ideal height for “leaning”. This gives your invited guests to “lean” on the counter (out from the kitchen) and discuss with you if you are food preparation (with the food prep). It’s also a fantastic height for serving food and tall stools as a breakfast bar. Each and every the top of counters must be the some width. Some sections could possibly be 9″ wide (merely a top to your kitchen partition, while other areas of the top counter can be 24” wide, for serving food or being a breakfast bar.
Now…I’m discussing this portion last because different clients use their kitchens differently, every person has their own taste. That’s not me speaking about the dimensions (although it’s related), but how lots of people they really want in a kitchen. Some clients want everybody in the kitchen, including guests and relatives, to help in cooking or processing your food, this means a more substantial kitchen to handle people. Others do not want anyone just some folks kitchen, so they aren’t tripping over individuals to obtain the meal finished, meaning a lesser more efficient kitchen.
Most advanced house designs hold the kitchen available to the garage or rear door and offered to lounge room and/or other rooms including breakfast areas, dining rooms, or hallways. What this means is your kitchen has multiple openings to take care of these functions. Some kitchens also have “island” cabinets/countertops with a couple of openings. Each of the openings to the kitchen enables people into the future in, stand around, or move across living rooms from Point A to suggest B elsewhere inside your home. Also, one of the quirks of our own human psychology is everyone ultimately ends up with the food prep. This design concept uses your home as being a “traffic corridor”. These kitchens require a wide range of space to handle the amount of traffic. Again, some clients love the flow of people around the kitchen. They only have to have a larger kitchen space for many this happen
Other clients think the “traffic corridor” kitchen concept “clogs” up the kitchen with unnecessary and unwanted people. Count me inside the “keep-the-unnecessary-people-out-of-the-kitchen” category. I love to maintain your kitchen open and alluring, I merely do not want the additional bodies as the meal will be prepared. By maintaining the excess bodies out, your home could be smaller plus much more efficient, meaning fewer steps involving the refrigerator, cooktop and sink.
Keeping people from the kitchen is quite very easy to do in your design, only make it tough for them to be in. Use a wrapping countertop with one (1) countertop opening in the kitchen, and look for that opening inside the most difficult spot to go into the kitchen. This, along with the “open floor plan” is the most productive way in order to avoid unwanted kitchen traffic. The single kitchen entrance will psychologically prevent them from entering your kitchen zone, whilst the open floor plan (no walls) enables you to contact family and guests, while keeping them from the kitchen.
With all the tidbits I’ve discussed above and by maintaining your people away from a kitchen, a kitchen size 16’x10′ or 12’x12′ is extremely effective, with a lot of storage. Making your home a “traffic corridor” for folks to give, your kitchen would have to double in proportions, and you are clearly not gaining safe-keeping with that size because every one of the openings on the kitchen are eating up what could have been useful for cabinets.
In regards to lighting, most kitchens use a few main means of lighting (or blend of these)
A. Light in the ceiling fan
B. “Can” lights within the ceiling
C. Under-cabinet lighting (usually puck lights or fluorescent strips)
I generally reject most of these lighting concepts. Having a light in the ceiling fan, you have the sunshine for your back, meaning you’re casting shadows onto everything you do around the countertop. Can lights are “energy hogs” given that they cut large holes in your insulation, and use inefficient incandescent lighting (usually 75 watt). I don’t use overhead cabinets then eliminate under-cabinet lighting, that’s sometimes expensive
Together with the tall ceilings of your scissors truss, I love to use MR16 adjustable light fixtures, not “can” lights. The MR16’s are usually termed as “strip” lighting. However, you’ll want to make use of a “plate” as opposed to a “strip” for your fixture connection. Simply by using a plate, the MR16 runs on the standard electrical box, so a reduced hole in your insulation blanket compared to a “can” light, plus they create double the amount light for less wattage (usually 50 watts) compared to a “can” light. MR16 fixtures can be be extremely small (which means you do not see them) and not expensive (around $20). MR16’s are adjustable, meaning it is possible to point the sunshine in which you are interested. A “can” light points light perpendicular on the ceiling. Inside a sloped ceiling, it’s not good. Locate your lights over the countertop to remove shadows, along your major work areas (sinks, cooktop, cutting and prep areas) after which distribute evenly down the rest of the countertops. You truly don’t require lights elsewhere other than for accent lighting. The lights over the counters will be more than enough, assuming you’re keeping the kitchen smaller.